We woke to another amazing day on the road, excited to explore another province, and eager to sample more fresh sea food.
We left Shediac, and took the fastest route to Confederation Bridge. The 12.9-kilometre (8 mi) bridge is the world’s longest bridge over ice-covered water.
It is a multi-span balanced cantilever bridge with a post-tensioned concrete box girder structure. Most of the curved bridge is 40 metres (131 ft) above water with a 60 m (197 ft) navigation span for ship traffic. The bridge rests on 62 piers, of which the 44 main piers are 250 m (820 ft) apart. The bridge is 11 m (36 ft) wide.
The speed limit on the bridge is 80 kilometres per hour (50 mph) but can vary with wind and weather conditions. When travelling at the speed limit, it takes about 12 minutes to cross the bridge.
Once we were on Prince Edward Island, we took a scenic drive along route 10 and 116. Along the way we stopped for fresh organic PEI potatoes from a roadside honour shop. Drop your coins in the tin and take your bag. Everyone is so trusting.
We were stopped in our vehicle on the side of the road. A local pulled up cautioning us we were heading to a dirt road. Evidently, most people turn around and leave when they see the dirt. As advised, the tar ended and the dirt started. The soil is a rich red, full of iron, and judging by the extent of agriculture along the route, it must be very fertile.
After a few kilometres, the dirt ended and we were back on a tar road, pulling into Victoria – you guessed it – a lobster roll for Susan and a butter pan fried fish for me. The seafood is very fresh, delivered from boat to restaurant on the same pier, first thing each morning.
We left the quaint little village of Victoria and headed to Stratford. Through an old school friend of Susan’s, we had made arrangements to park in another friends driveway. We used Stratford as our base to explore PEI for three days.
Day One Side Trip.
We left on our first day of adventure. Within a short distance, we stumbled across a sign pointing to Orwell Corners Historic Village. We couldn’t resist, and it was definitely worth it.
We felt transported back in time, feeling the charm of a small Prince Edward Island agricultural crossroads in the 1890 era.
The small community was founded in the early nineteenth century. Settlers were brought out by Captain John MacDonald, as well as families that came from the Isle of Skye, County Monaghan in Ireland and United Empire Loyalists. Many of the current residents in the Orwell community are descendants of these early pioneers.
We left Orwell Corners, and continued our travels through Montagne. We stopped at Bogside Brewing and sampled some of the fine craft beer.
After leaving Bogside Brewing with a few cans of their finest beer, we headed to Georgetown. I was excited to have lunch with a former work colleague, Mike and his wife Lori. We met at Wheelhouse seaside seafood restaurant and caught up on the last fifteen or more years.
After many laughs and a lovely lunch, we headed through Souris (pronounced surrey) on our way to East Point Lighthouse.
Over time, storm wave action has eroded the cliffs, necessitating the relocation of the Lighthouse to a safer ground. This has left the old foundations balancing precariously on the cliff edge.
We left East Point Lighthouse and drove to Greenwich Provincial Park where we stopped at a roadside farm diner. After a very affordable supper, we returned to Stratford.
Day Two Side Trip
Our second day took us to the north central portion of the island, with a stop at the original PEI Dirt Shirt factory, where they dye cheap white shirts with PEI dirt, and charge a fortune for the final product. Some genius is laughing all the way to the bank. I succumbed to the temptation and contributed to their success.
When in Cavendish, one has to visit the Lucy Maude Montgomery Heritage Site. All that remains are the original foundations of the home where she lived with her Grandparents. From this location, she looked out over the rolling landscape and was inspired to write many books – the most famous being Anne of Green Gables.
Next, we visited Green Gables Heritage Place. The Green Gables farm was owned by the MacNeill family, who were cousins of author Lucy Maud Montgomery. The farm’s name is derived from the rich dark green paint of the gables on the farmhouse. The main exterior walls of the farmhouse are painted white.
Montgomery visited the farm as a young girl and based the location of her best-selling Anne series of books on the Green Gables farm. She drew romantic inspiration from the house, as well as the surrounding area, including the “Haunted Woods”, “Lovers’ Lane”, and “Balsam Hollow.”
We left Cavendish and continued on our way, driving through New London, and stopping in at LM Montgomerys’ birthplace.
To end our day, we headed to Greenwich Park and stopped in at a small farm stall takeout for a light supper.
Day Three Side Trip
For our third and final day touring PEI, we headed west through Summerside, towards the Bottle Houses.
Since 1980, Édouard T. Arsenault collected over 25,000 recycled bottles and ingeniously cemented them together to create the Bottle Houses.
He started these houses after having received a postcard of a glass castle from his daughter in 1979, an attraction she had visited on Vancouver Island in British Columbia. That same summer, he started collecting bottles from his community, mostly from a local restaurant, community dance halls, friends, relatives and neighbours.
He spent winters in the basement of his home, cleaning bottles, removing labels and dreaming of his project. In the spring of 1980, at the age of 66, he began his construction.
We continued our drive, heading to the O’Leary Potato Museum, a living testament to the humble tuber and those who have tilled the soil in its evolution.
Highlights include the world’s largest exhibits of potato-related farm machinery, agricultural and community artifacts, and the world’s largest potato sculpture.
While touring the museum, we watched a brief video or Rick Mercer, Harvesting PEI potatoes. A quick YouTube search, and we’re able to share it with you.
We left the museum, and continued to North Point, Lighthouse and Wind Energy Museum.
Standing at North Point, eroded cliffs at our feet, we looked over Gulf of St Lawrence.
We toured a facility, explaining wind turbines, and left with an appreciation of their size and clean power generating capacity.
On our way back to Stratford, we stopped in at Charlottetown for a drink and supper at The Graham House.
A walk around downtown, amongst old historical buildings, one can appreciate tradesmen, the results of their labour standing as testament to their skills.
Our overall observation of PEI – manicured lawns and white painted houses, very clean villages, and friendly locals. Special thanks to Dave and Dave for your respective help and hospitality. And lastly, to Mike and Lori for a wonderful seafood lunch.