We woke to a brisk morning, the temperature 9oC, the sun bright in a clear blue sky, a steady breeze blowing making it feel like 7oC with the wind chill.
This was a big day – we were heading to the most easterly point in our cross Canada travels. I also had a meeting lined up with a notary to sign the final documentation for the sale of my house back in Vancouver.
We hit the road, and made good progress towards St. John’s. The roads were great.
We admired the changing scenery, the trees becoming more stunted and windswept as we approached the coastline.
We arrived in St. John’s, and drove directly to the notary for a 12:30pm meeting.
We couldn’t find parking for our 47ft truck and trailer in the very narrow downtown streets.
I jumped out the truck and Susan drove around, pulling 7000lbs of travel trailer on steep hills and tight corners. I signed my paperwork, and the notary witnessed everything – all for $50. In Vancouver, the same paperwork would cost me $150.
I felt like I was in some old crime novel, a white haired lawyer wearing suspenders, and a desk littered with files.
My meeting over, Susan picked me up and drove us to the campground. We set up the trailer, unhitched, and headed back into St. John’s so Susan could follow up with her bank regarding a replacement credit card after the old one was compromised.
We left downtown and drove up to the Signal Hill Historic Site. It was at this location on 12 December 1901, the first transatlantic wireless transmission was received by Marconi. Signal Hill has a long history that can be read on Wikipedia.
We left Signal Hill, headed back downtown, walked George Street, had supper and washed it down with Guinness. After a hearty Newfoundland supper, we walked across the street to Kiss the Cod at Trapper Johns.
It was kiss the Cod or kiss the Puffins arse. I didn’t need a rocket scientist to help with my choice to kiss the Cod.
After we were sworn is as Honorary Newfoundlanders – woohoo – we headed back to our campsite for the night, eager to explore more historical attractions the next day.
Over the previous week, we followed the weather forecasts listening for updates on Cyclone Dorian. It had weakened to a hurricane-force post-tropical cyclone. Dorian was traveling over the Canadian Maritimes and had a sustained winds of 140kph.
We were on the east coast of Newfoundland and hadn’t felt its devastating affect. Unfortunately, Nova Scotia, PEI and the west coast of Newfoundland were taking a beating, leaving 500,000 people without power, and campgrounds looking like a war zone.
Overnight, the temperature dropped down to single digits again. This time it was 7oC and the wind chill made it feel like 3oC. The weather advisory issued a frost warning. Fall is definitely starting, and it’s time to pull out some warmer clothing.
After a good night sleep, thanks to “Screech”, we rose to a clear blue sky, had breakfast, then ran a few errands before heading out on our exploration.
Our first stop was at Cape Spear, the most easterly point in Canada. This was a big milestone for us…we couldn’t drive any further east.
From here, we start heading west, to explore the rest of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick before heading south into the USA.
Lighthouses have operated at Cape Spear since September 1836.
During the Second World War, two 10 inch breech loading guns on disappearing carriages were installed to defend the entrance to St. John’s harbor.
Barracks, magazines, and underground passages leading to the gun bunkers were built for the use of troops stationed there. The gun barrels still remain in place.
On our way out of Cape Spear, we stopped to complete an Inuksuk, pointing the way of our journey overlooking some amazing cliffs with the jagged coastline below.
We headed to the quaint hamlet of Petty Harbour. The fishing boats docked in the small harbour, colourful houses climbing up the hillsides, narrow roads winding between them.
A friend suggested we visit Tinkers Ice Cream Shop. They were divine, and some of their creations are enough to make a dieter faint in shock.
Fortunately we don’t live in the area. We would take regular drives to stop in for an ice cream.
We drove past a nondescript building, unaware it contained the first hydroelectric generating station in Newfoundland. It’s still in operation today since 1898. Never judge a book by its cover.
We left Petty Harbour, and headed back into St. John’s to visit the Railway Coastal Museum. It contained exhibits detailing the history of the Newfoundland Railway and the history of coastal water transportation in the province.
We left the museum and took a drive through the narrow steep streets of St. John’s, admiring the many colourful houses standing firm for generations on steep streets.
After a while, we worked our way into Quidi Vidi Village. Say this fast three times …Very Quaint Victorian Quidi Vidi Village.
After our last day of exploration, we headed back to camp for a BBQ, and prepare for the rest of our Newfoundland journey.